This has definitely been the summer of treasure hunting at yard/estate sales and restoring or repurposing great gems… I promise to share all my cool DIY restoring projects and how to’s!
One of the most amazing finds we have picked up is this rickety old Muskoka Chair love seat at a garage sale for only $4 dollars. It was falling apart, the paint was chipping, and it was practically junk. I had been eyeing Muskoka or “Adriondack” chairs for a while, and have been dreaming about the $300 authentic single wooden ones all summer but opted out for $18 dollar plastic ones from Home Depot instead.
When I saw the almost unsalvageable loveseat version, I knew this was worth the elbow grease, the schlep to get it in the car, and the time it takes to restore it.
Here is what it looked like once I brought it home, I had to take it apart to fit it in the car.
BEFORE
BEFORE
BEFORE
Here is the process it took to bring these beauties back to life:
Scraped off the old paint, and sanded the chairs
I had to remove all broken and rotted parts by unscrewing it off and replaced them with new wooden pieces that were cut perfectly to replace the original piece exactly.
Some of the planks had cracks in them but were useable, so I used wood filler to fill in any cracks, gaps, or chips. Then sanded the filler when dry.
After checking the stability of the chairs, making sure its not rocky and all parts are screwed in tight, its time to paint it.
*TIP* When shopping at Home Depot, there is always a clearance section on the paints dept where they are selling off paints that people returned. I have found the most amazing premium paints for $9 a gallon. Since I wasn’t set on any particular colour, I checked the paint clearance section and found a great outdoor paint by Behr that was a light grey for only $9 instead of $60. It was meant to be!
6. Drying time: After everything was painted in a thick coat. I left the pieces to dry for about 2 hours.
7. The last step was to put the pieces back together. I brought them up to my balcony, where I most enjoy working or having my morning coffee and screwed the middle table into the 2 chairs on both sides using new screws. ALL DONE and READY TO ENJOY!
AFTER
AFTER
AFTER
I’m sitting on them as i’m writing this post! Thanks for following along… and follow me on Instagram @designwithrev for more DIY and Home decor inspiration!
Over the last couple months, we have been taking on some great DIY projects in the name of making my backyard an oasis that I can relax and feel proud to entertain in. This is my first summer having my own backyard and believe me i’m taking full advantage of my time out here. Entertaining and cooking for my loved ones are a huge part of my life, so my backyard turned courtyard definitely reflects this!
I’m finally proud to present to you my backyard reveal….
Our backyard is currently undergoing a facelift {reveal coming soon} and we are trying to go for the modern garden of eden look, so we added lots of flowers, trees and beautiful planters. We also purchased a bunch of Arborvitae trees (Emerald greens) which gives a backyard that luxe look. We don’t want the trees to over grow since we have a modest sized backyard. To contain its size, its best to keep it in a planter which restricts its growth as opposed to planting it into the ground.
This is where our idea came in to build beautiful wooden planters for our Arborvitae trees. They look so great and cost under $25 to make, so I am excited to share with you our Do It Yourself process and help you build your own!
HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN PLANTER in 8 easy steps!
Materials:
3 – 1x6x8 wood planks (approx $12)
1 – 2x3x8 wood planks (approx $2)
3 inch wood screws & 2 inch wood screws
nails (approx $6)
*Optional: stain and lacquer
Tools:
Miter saw or any saw of choice
Nail gun or hammer and nails
*Optional: brush, sponge, and disposable cloth
We made planters that have a raised platform, therefore they are 20″ high, and 15″ wide & deep. If you want a different size, change your measurements.
Step One:
Take your 2x3x8 planks and cut 4 pieces of 20″ inch poles and put them aside. Then take the remaining 2x3x8 plank and cut 8 pieces of 15″ inch poles and put them aside.
Step Two:
Using 2 20″ poles and one 15″ pole make a U. Have the 20″ poles stand up right and connect the two with one 15″ pole. The U should be placed as in photo, screw in the outer poles into the connecting pole using 3″ screws from both sides. To make it easier, make guide holes using a thinner drill bit.
After you are done 1 U out of the 3 planks. Make one more identical U. You should be done using all 4 20″ poles at this point.
Step Three:
Taking your 2 U shapes, you need to connect them together using another 15″ pole on both sides. NOTE: When screwing into the wood planks through the wider end of the wood, use 3″ screws. When screwing in through the narrower end, use the 2″ screws.
Looking at the screw holes on the bottom, the top left uses a 3″ screw and bottom right uses a 2″ screw
The end of step three should look like this….
Step Four:
Now we are going to make a base to the planter. We are not going to make the planter floor at the bottom of this table looking box. We want the floor raised 5 inches, so we need to make a floor base.
Take your remaining 4 – 15″ poles and fit them in between the legs on all 4 sides. Measure 5″ from the bottom (or from the top if upside down) and screw them in at the 5″ mark all the way around as shown in photos.
Step Five:
Now you should have the completed frame for your planter. In this step you will make the floor base of the planter. We made a 5″ raise (as seen in previous step), so you will need to measure the length of the base.
After you measure from end to end, cut 3 planks to size of the 1×6 wood.
In the photo below you will see, we cut out the corners to cover the base without leaving spaces and fit the base planks perfectly on the base poles on the bottom.
Cut the corners to fit the space with a miter saw or jig saw.
Nail all 3 planks to the base on both ends until entire base is covered.
Step Six:
Flip the planter to one of its 4 sides, and measure the width to be able to cut the 1×6 wood to cover the side from pole to pole. Cut 3 planks of 1×6 per side. Then nail 3 planks on one side (see below). Note: Don’t measure one side, and cut 12 planks of the same measurements to cover all 4 sides of the planter. The measurements change slightly from side to side, so to be accurate, measure one side at a time and cut wood and nail it in one side at a time.
When you cut 3 per side, nail it in on both sides. When done, flip and measure the width of the next side. Cut 3 equal planks and nail it it. Repeat this until all sides are covered. You will have the legs uncovered.
When done, the planter should look like this.
Technically, you can stop right here as this is a perfectly good and aesthetically pleasing planter. However, Doron didn’t like the unfinished look of the top, so he made a frame using the remainder of the 1×6 wood. See step seven to continue.
Step Seven:
To make a frame on the top, you will need to have intermediate miter skills as corners get tricky. Note: The other option is to make straight cuts at the ends and have the ends sit perpendicular to each other. Here we make proper framing corners and frame the top of the planter with 4 planks of 1×6 wood and nail the frame into the top of the planter.
Tip: if you have space between frame corners, use wood filler to fill the gaps. Sand once dried.
Once framing is complete, planter should look like this (see below).
Doron spray painted the legs black for a more finished look
Step Eight *Optional:
As you can see in step seven, the planters already look so great and complete. But Doron and I are perfectionists, and we take it to the next level by staining and lacquering the planters.
We used a stain called Tuscan. First mix the stain. Use a bristle or foam brush and apply the stain like paint.
Once you finished applying the stain. Take a clean cotton rag or cloth and wipe the stain off the wood (wipe all surfaces). Let dry for about 3 hours (or until if feels dry).
Last, use any lacquer of your choice (matte, satin, or glossy). We used matte lacquer and applied with a paint brush. Now leave to dry for 8 hours or overnight.
When dry, plant your favourite tree, vegetables, or flowers!
I hope you’ve enjoyed this post and found it helpful! Find more DIY projects in the menu above and follow me on instagram @designwithrev for more DIY and decor inspiration!
When Doron and I bought our home, we were anxious to do so much, in so little time, on a strict budget. We never compromised on aesthetics, but we often found creative ways to achieve a look because hiring someone may not have been in the cards. One of the looks I tried to achieve is an accent framed backsplash in the main bathroom. Instead of taking on the gruelling DIY tiling project, we tried vinyl stick on tiles. The reviews were generally good so we took a leap of faith. I know what you’re thinking…..but to be honest they look great and 98% of viewers thought they were real mosaic tiles.
The reality is, they don’t last. They started peeling at the edges and ultimately it was a waste of money because we had to redo the job with real tiles anyway. Turning this annoyance into a positive, it offered Doron and I an opportunity to learn something new and valuable which is doing our own tiling jobs, and we did it well!!
Heres the before with the vinyl stick on tiles.
HOW TO DO YOUR OWN TILES
Materials and tools used:
Tiles (we used mosaic as they are easier to use for rookies)
Tile adhesive (or you can use thin set mortar)
Grooved Tile Trowel
Rubber float
Side grinder saw with diamond blade (or you can use a tile cutter or wet saw)
Grout:we used non sanded powder
sponge for grout
caulk
Step one:
Remove all existing tiles, vinyl, and clear the wall. Patch up the walls with spackle/wall filler as needed because you cannot tile over gashes in the wall. Tiles are heavy so it needs a good wall support. Then take off plug and light switch covers.
Step two:
Apply the adhesive with a trowel (or a scraper as it was easier for me), then with the grooved end of the trowel, scrape across to make trowel lines.
Step three:
Apply the tiles right over the tile adhesive. It is relatively easy, and only gets difficult where you need to cut around sinks, plugs etc. Then with a rubber float, push tiles into the adhesive gently and make sure its all around levelled.
Step four:
When you get to the parts where you need to cut, make sure you measure the sheet of tiles and the wall and mark where it needs cutting. Doron used a side grinder with a diamond blade to cut the individual mosaic tiles to fit in different size pieces into the empty spaces. If you are not using mosaic tiles, do not follow these steps.
Make sure you are constantly wiping down the tiles from excess adhesive (with warm water and cloth), otherwise it will be harder to clean and it dries quickly.
When done tiling the area you are doing. Make sure the tile tops are wiped down well and clean and leave to dry for 24 hours.
Step five:
You can either buy ready to use grout or powder. We used the powder form and followed the instructions on how to mix with water. We applied the grout over the tiles, you can use the rubber float to do so. You don’t have to over apply the grout, just make sure all the grout lines are filled and use the float to smooth it on. You can see here that there isn’t very much excess on the tile but lines are filled.
Wait 10 mins, or so and use a big damp cloth to wipe off the grout. Don’t wipe too hard to the point you are wiping it out of the lines. Keep washing and rinsing the cloth and gently clean off the tiles until they are completely clean of grout.
Step six:
Now you can caulk the edges of the tiles where it meets the counter. You may want to use white or clear depending on what your counter looks like or colour scheme. We didn’t caulk or use edging strips as we framed the tiles with mouldings as you will continue to see. Finish off the job by putting back all the plug covers.
Step 7: Design with Rev Additions
Since we used board and batten on the lower half of the bathroom walls, we added a moulding strip along the top of the backsplash to frame it. We taped it up and painted it white.
Final Look
Want to see more DIY projects? Check out the DIY Projects link and don’t forget to follow me on Instagram @designwithrev!
Making over one room at a time, this office makeover was definitely one of my favourites. I really got to utilize my inner interior designer and artist within this room and incorporated some of my favourite design elements: Scandinavian design, black-white-gold decor, rustic glam, and of course a gallery wall…Obvi!
First I shopped around for Inspiration……
Inspiration
Photo by @drivenbydecor
Photo by @frillsanddrills
Photo found on @workspacegoals
Photo found on @chicoffice
Photo by @katy_paris
…. Then I created this design board
Office Renovation
I knew that I wanted a mostly black-white-gold space that where Scandinavian design meets feminine glam.
First we designed and installed the feature board and batten wall. Wall colour is CIL Granite Grey. The other walls were painted white.
Then design innovation calls for a gold iron pipe shelling unit. This idea incorporates the rustic shelving trend along with gold glamour.
DIY Pipe Shelf. Iron pipes spray painted gold.
Furniture
My BFF was getting rid of her modern office furniture (desk & office chair) as she is opting out for a more rustic look. I totally snatched them up as they work perfectly in this space.
The furniture is mostly modern and white. White leather and chrome chair. Desk with a glass top with the word love etched in every single language…
Rug. I shopped around for a Moroccan inspired pattern, but ended up scooping up this striking black and white wool rug at Ikea.
Decor
Desk essentials
Lamp from Ikea
Desk Accessories from Homesense
Shelving Decor
Office Shelving
Gallery Wall
Office Gallery Wall
Lighting & Curtains:
Moroccan Trellis Pattern. Light fixture from home depot. Curtains from HomeSense.
Chic Office Makeover
To see more DIY projects and makeovers, follow me on Instagram @designwithrev
Meet our entry way before…. It wasn’t too shabby, but I’ve been swooning over some great mudroom inspiration and my heart was yearning for an entry way with more storage and luxe design. We can’t get enough of board and batten, especially when it comes to mudrooms. Now, I have all of 20 square feet of entry way space, so lets be real, there was no mudroom makeover here. However, I found a way to incorporate board and batten into my very small entry way, added additional storage and decor, and made great use of a very small space.
BEFORE – Entry way
Here is our new Design With Rev Entryway….
We installed a beautiful tall board and batten design that allowed us to incorporate a little crown moulding ledge. The panelling was built a few feet on both sides of the front door. We also added a sleek shoe storage cabinet that doubles as a console table for storage and a crisp white mirror.
My absolute favourite part are the mock mudroom hooks! Although this gem is behind the front door, we make great use of the hooks for storage of our coats as the coat/shoe closet is located on the next level.
I hope this entry way has inspired you! For more interior design inspiration, follow me on Instagram @designwithrev!
Doron and I took on a new challenge for friends of ours who were looking to completely redo their 100 year old bathroom, aesthetically and structurally.
We didn’t capture too many before pictures, but this photo is after phase one demolition. We removed peachy coloured wall tiles throughout the bathroom, removed toilet & pedestal sink, and even the window casing as it really dated this bathroom. The owners wanted everything new and updated.
The owners chose a white subway tile to make their little washroom nook current and it made the bathroom appear larger and brighter. They also chose a mosaic mini hexagon tile for the floor. The look of the bathroom resulted in a Parisian chic atmosphere.
Here are the after shots:
Subway Tile in tub area and walls, shower head, and curtain rod installed
Window reconstructed with tile flush to window
Vanity and toilet installed
Mosaic Floors installed
Storage space built behind tub area
Finishing touches (paint, decor)
Client must add bathroom mirror of choice, and bathroom reno is complete!!
To see more of our projects, follow me on @designwithrev on Instagram!
Just in time for passover, I’m sharing my beloved chicken soup recipe that has my husband begging. This time I added matzah balls for good Jewish measure, otherwise I use mini croutons, a household chicken soup staple. Lets begin, shall we?
Ingredients:
2 packages of chicken bones or chicken necks (many grocery stores carry kosher chicken carcasses for cheap i.e. sobeys)
1 large onion
3 carrots shopped
4 celery stalks chopped
1 large zucchini – spiralized (zucchini noodles) or chopped
3-4 Heaping tbs of Osem’s Chicken soup stock powder (or whatever you have)
2 bay leafs
pepper to taste
Matzah Balls: 1 pkg of matzo-meal or 1 cup crushed matzah, 2 large eggs, 1/4 cup vegetable oil OR follow recipe & instructions on the box.
First take a very large pot and fill with water about 1/2 or 3/5 of the way, depending on how much soup you want (if you have less than 2 litres of water in your pot, your pot is not big enough) and heat on high. Add the onion and chicken bones. As the water heats up, add the carrots, celery, and bay leaves. Leave to boil and turn down heat to low-medium.
Once the soup has been simmering for a while (about 20-30 mins), you will notice foam floating at the top of the pot from the chicken fat. Make sure you scoop out as much as you can from the top, and give the soup a good stir. Stir in 3 heaping tablespoons of chicken soup powder (Hold the 4th), and add pepper.
Add the spiralized zucchini. If you prefer to use the zucchini noodles as a replacement to traditional noodles to make it a noodle soup, don’t add the zucchini noodles while the soup is cooking. Leave them raw in a tupperware and them to your individual bowl. For this recipe, I added them in to cook half way through. Let the soup simmer for another 30 mins.
Spiralized zucchini thrown in chicken broth
Take this time to make the matzah balls and begin boiling a smaller pot of water. We usually buy ready matzo-meal with a recipe on the box. But if you must make from scratch… Mix 2 large eggs and 1/4 cup of oil . Mix in about 1 cup of crushed matzah (bread crumb like consistency) and 1/4 tsp of salt. Let stand for about 15 mins, then with wet hands, take the batter and make little balls (size of a walnut) and drop into the boiling pot of water. Let it boil on low for 20 mins, then scoop out the balls and place into a tupperware.
Boiled matzah balls ready to be taken out
Now taste the soup, depending on how much water you used, we want to make sure its not too salty. If you feel it could use more salt or you like a saltier chicken soup, add one more tablespoon of chicken soup powder or as much as your heart desires.
Soup is ready to be served!
Place a few ladles full of soup into a bowl, make sure you add all the veggie and chicken bone goodness in there. Add 2 matzah balls or a bunch of zucchini noodles. Now feed the soul…
Now that the weather is getting warmer, people tend to think about renovating their outdated bathroom or updating their entry way tiling. Before you contemplate what to buy, if you’re interested in keeping up with what’s current in your home, consider these 6 top tile trends that are really popping in 2016.
1. Geometric Tiles.
In line with the popular Scandinavian style, geometric tile shapes are commonly sought after. Whether you choose the popular hexagon tile or other linear shapes, your tiles will be on point this year.
2. The NEW Subway Tile.
Out with the old and in with the new subway tile. Instead of the traditional subway tile look, try square tiles with a darker grout.
3. Metallic Tiles.
Go Glam with metallic or even stainless steel tile or tile accents.
4. 3D Tiles.
3D geometric and other textured tiles, whatever your heart desires.
5. Custom Tile Patch Work
High fashion and luxury tile work is always the way to go when it fits the space. Here you will see a mix of tile patch work, patterns mixing in together, and other custom designs.
6. Retro & Patterned Tile.
Notice how the vintage retro look is making a comeback? Tiles in this category are for the bold homeowner, but totally swoon worthy, especially in the black and white variety.
Follow @designwithrev on instagram for more homespiration.
Last weekend Doron and I took on a project outside our own home that I would love to share with you all. We were hired by a close friend who has been inspired by all our DIY wall treatments to give a small facelift to her soon-to-be baby nursery, master bathroom, and second floor bathroom.
Baby Nursery
We chose a very charming paneling design that goes 3/4 up the wall, and painted the wall a gorgeous fine silver. We also added a curtain rod with flowing sheers.
Bathroom Chair Rails
Beginning with the second floor bath, this space was already renovated and bright white with modern finishings. The home owners felt like it needed a little sparkle, so we framed the basic large mirror and added a flat chair rail to give the room a little more dimension. The flat mouldings chosen were to match the rest of the modern lines within the room. We painted the walls here fine silver as well to create a subtle cozy look as this is the baby’s bathroom.
The luxurious master bath was also bright white, but we decided to go a little more dramatic with the walls. Sticking to the flat chair rails to match the modern bathroom, we painted the wall a bold granite grey. The crystal light fixture and marble tiles are quite seductive…
Inspired by the design? Follow me on Instagram @designwithrev for ideas OR contact me for a consultation!
Design with Rev 